Cook the macaroni: Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the macaroni and cook until just al dente—about 1 minute less than the packet suggests. You want the pasta to still have a slight bite because it will continue cooking later. Drain well and set aside. The steam rising from the colander should smell of wheat and salt.

Make the cheese sauce (the soul of this recipe): Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Once it foams and you smell that nutty aroma, add the flour. Whisk continuously for 2 minutes until the mixture turns a pale golden colour and smells biscuity. Slowly pour in the warmed milk, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. The sauce will thicken noticeably after about 4 minutes—you'll feel the whisk meeting resistance, and the sauce will coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat.

Add the cheeses and seasoning: Stir in the mustard powder, smoked paprika, and nutmeg. Add the grated cheddar, mozzarella, and parmesan in handfuls, stirring until each addition is fully melted and glossy. The sauce should be thick, smooth, and pale golden with flecks of paprika. Taste and season with salt and white pepper. Fold the cooked macaroni into the sauce until every piece is coated.

Chill the mixture: Spread the macaroni and cheese into a lined baking tray, pressing it into an even layer about 2cm thick. Cover with cling film directly on the surface to prevent a skin forming. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until the mixture is completely firm and cold to the touch. This step is essential—warm mixture won't hold its shape when you try to roll it.

Shape the balls: Using slightly wet hands, scoop out portions of the chilled mixture and roll into balls roughly the size of a golf ball. Place them on a tray lined with baking paper. You should get around 24 balls. The mixture will feel firm but pliable, and your fingers will leave slight impressions that you can smooth over.

Set up the coating station: Prepare three shallow bowls: one with the plain flour, one with the beaten eggs, and one with the panko breadcrumbs. Working one ball at a time, roll in the flour (shake off excess), dip in the egg (let excess drip off), then coat thoroughly in the panko, pressing gently to adhere. The breadcrumbs should form an even, sandy layer. Place coated balls back on the tray.

Chill again (don't skip this): Refrigerate the coated balls for 30 minutes. This helps the coating set and prevents it from falling off during frying. When you touch them, the breadcrumb layer should feel dry and firmly attached.

Fry to golden perfection: Heat 5cm of vegetable oil in a deep pan to 175°C. Use a kitchen thermometer—the oil is ready when a breadcrumb dropped in sizzles immediately and floats to the surface. Fry the balls in batches of 5-6, being careful not to crowd the pan. They need space to bubble and turn. Fry for 2-3 minutes, turning occasionally, until deep golden brown. The sound should be a steady, gentle sizzle—if it's spitting violently, the oil is too hot. Transfer to a wire rack set over a baking tray (not paper towels, which make them soggy). The crust should feel shatteringly crisp and sound crunchy when you tap it.

Serve immediately: These macaroni and cheese balls are at their absolute best within 5 minutes of leaving the oil. The contrast between the hot, crispy shell and the molten, creamy centre is the whole point. Serve with a simple dipping sauce if you like, though honestly, they're magnificent on their own.